Restaurant review: Gazzosa

Rue de la Madeleine 55

What’s good? Gazzosa’s tagline is “L’Italia nel piatto puro e autentico” — “Pure and authentic Italy on a plate.” That’s exactly what you get. The paccheri pomodoro, with a light but perfectly sweet and tart tomato sauce, spoke to the delectable simplicity that makes Italian cuisine so beloved. The pasta of the week, which on this occasion featured seasonal chard with a white sauce, was zingy and cozy. The choice of orecchiette for the pasta was especially nice — they’re the perfect tiny bowl-shaped vessels for a cheesy sauce. The generous amount of Parmesan on both pasta dishes was also appreciated, as was the obvious top-tier wine knowledge of the server.

What’s not? The menu is seriously sparse — and that’s probably the point. But it was disappointing there was no focaccia available, which is one of the few menu items. If you were hoping for dessert (like a nice tiramisu to finish off the meal), too, you’ll have to search elsewhere to satisfy your craving.

Vibe: A hip yet cozy and unpretentious Italian joint with a rustic-trendy twist.

Who’s picking up the check? It’s around €40 for a glass of wine and a plate of pasta each for two people.

Spotted: The chef, effortlessly tossing pasta in sauce at the stovetop. He is the first person you see when you walk in because his cooking station is open to the entire restaurant, making it almost feel like someone is preparing a meal for you in their home.

Insider tip: Sit upstairs for a more intimate dining experience, complete with candles and funk music to set the mood. 

Fun fact: You can pick up a host of Italian grocery items at Gazzosa, too. It sells an impressively large container of olive oil, taralli, tomato sauce, pasta and more.

How to get there: After hopping off at Gare Centrale, walk through Square de la Putterie to Rue de la Madeleine and look for Galerie Bortier — a newly refurbished gallery with loads of new restaurants. Head inside. Gazzosa is at the very back on the left.

Review published on  December 5, 2024. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO.